Exploring Enoshima, Japan!

Enoshima was definitely one of the highlights of my most recent trip to Japan. Situated in Kanagawa prefecture, it’s a great day trip from Tokyo or a part-day trip from Kamakura or Hase.

There’s lots to explore on this lovely island, from gift shops and shrines to sea caves! And it’s easily doable in a morning or an afternoon.

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Getting to Enoshima

Enoshima is a stop along the Enoden railway, which is operated by Odakyu Railways. Although your JR Railpass won’t be valid, you can either purchase a ticket or use an IC card (I’d recommend the latter – much less hassle!)

If you’re coming from Tokyo, you’ll need to change trains at Fujisawa to get access to the Enoden railway. If you’re already at Kamakura or Hase though, it’s about a 25 minute journey, again using the Enoden railway.

The journey itself is lovely. The Enoden railway line is at street level and trundles past the stunning shoreline, giving you plenty of time to take in the scenery.

From Enoshima train station (home of the Enoden shop, which has lots of cute items for the train lover in your life) it’s about a 15 minute walk over a bridge to the island. From here you can see gorgeous sunsets and a clear view of Mt Fuji if you’re lucky!

Start by buying some souvenirs!

The initial ascent in Enoshima takes you past Enoshima Island Spa, where you can take advantage of the on-site onsen for a small fee. There are also a number of shops on the way up to Enoshima Shrine selling traditional items, similar to those you might find in Kamakura or in Kyoto. These include food items to take home as souvenirs or to eat en route. If it’s a sunny day I recommend the matcha ice-cream!

Take the steps (or the escalator) up to Enoshima shrine

Once you’re on the island there’s a standard route around so you don’t need to worry about missing anything. One thing I will mention though: the island is pretty hilly and there are a LOT of steps.

Luckily there are two escalators that help deal with the initial ascent and they’re not too expensive – it’s around £4/$5 to use them both. I wish I had paid up and used them!

The first escalator is to the left of the flight of steps that take you up to the main shrine buildings.

Enoshima Shrine is actually split into three shrines dotted around the island, but the shrine at the top is probably the busiest. As well as worshipping at the shrine, you can purchase omamori (I got the awesome dragon omamori that you can see below), and a rather arty goshuin.

Benzaiten, the Buddhist goddess of the arts, is said to be enshrined here, and for 200 Yen you can pay to view a statue of her. She is often associated with dragons; and the tale goes that she calmed a five-headed dragon that was terrorising the area around Enoshima.

From there, it’s another escalator up.

Have some delicious french toast overlooking the bay

At the top of the second escalator/ flight of stairs is the botanical garden established by Samuel Cocking, a merchant who came to Japan and later established the garden here on Enoshima. I didn’t have to pay to enter the garden itself, but if you want to go up the Sea Candle (which is located inside the garden), you can buy your ticket at the entrance. During the winter months there’s also a Winter Lights illumination event and again you can buy tickets at the same place.

As it was November when I visited there wasn’t a whole lot of greenery in the garden, however there’s a greenhouse including some of Samuel Cocking’s items, and also Lon Cafe, a café specialising in French toast only. I had the ‘set menu’ which included a drink and of course, some French toast. Not only was it delicious, but the café is partially outside and the views overlooking the bay are gorgeous. (There are blankets in case it’s cold).

In the UK, if you’re visiting the coast you’ve got to watch out for seagulls pinching your chips…however in Enoshima you have to watch out for…hawks! There are loads of them circling round, although fortunately they left me alone.

Head up the Sea Candle

I had read about the ‘sea candle’ of Enoshima but hadn’t really understood what it actually was. Was it a stalagmite in the sea caves? Was it a stone sculpture? The answer was neither – it’s a manmade observatory offering 360 degree views of the bay.

It was only 300 Yen (about £2/ $3) so I thought why not, I’ll give it a go. There are lifts up (and down, although you can take the steps if you prefer) to an indoor section in case it’s windy or freezing. There’s another set of steps up to floor above which is open to the elements but offers clear views of the shoreline and the sea.

Follow the path past Enoshima temple

From the Sea Candle, I headed out of the Samuel Cocking garden and followed the route around to the sea caves. Here I found that the island gets a little bit quieter, and there are restaurants here if you need a pit-stop.

On the way to the sea caves is the Enoshima Daishi, the only Buddhist temple on the island. You’ll recognise it immediately by the fearsome statues of Nio guardians at the entrance, who are there to protect Buddha and the temple.

I only went into the entrance briefly, but I got myself an omikuji (fortune) which they have available in English. I got daikichi, which is the best fortune you can get!

Explore the sea caves by candlelight!

At the opposite end of the island are the sea caves of Enoshima. This was my favourite activity of the day! It cost 500 Yen to enter, which is around £3.50/$4. Once you enter, the main tunnel has lots of information about how Enoshima formed and the wildlife you can find on and around the island.

Then, you’re given a candle on a paddle to carry round with you as you explore the cave! Mine had a very cute turtle design. There are two caves and there’s a linear path round both so you won’t miss anything.

The caves have been a place of worship since the olden days, and there are statues throughout that worshippers brought as gifts to show their devotion. I cannot imagine how much effort it would have been to get them on to the island in the first place, let alone hauling them across the island and deep into the caves!

There is also an amazing dragon statue, which again echoes Benzaiten and the story with the five-headed dragon.

Of course, as you leave the cave, you’re greeted by great views of the sea and sky.

Enjoy the sunset by the sea on your way back

There is a coastal path you can take that’s next to the sea cave entrance, although it’s only one way so you’ll need to double back eventually. It was lovely to sit on the rocks watching fishermen casting their nets and seeing children exploring the rock pools. I really recommend being here at sunset as you can get some incredible photos.