Visiting Kurama near Kyoto: all you need to know!

Kurama is a tiny village in the mountains to the north of Kyoto. There’s an array of fun things to do here, including riding the funicular railway, hiking through the forest, and relaxing in hot springs. Visiting Kurama was one of my favourite days in Japan and I would absolutely recommend it to anyone visiting Kyoto.

Getting to Kurama

Kurama is situated an hour’s train ride north of Kyoto. Take the red Keihan line from Shichijo station in Kyoto (or wherever your nearest Keihan line station is) north to Demachiyanagi, where you’ll need to change to the Eizan line to Kurama station. It costs approx. 700 yen each way (£4.90, $7 USD). 

If you’re travelling on a weekend there may well be a series of small food vans outside the station. I 100% recommend the French toast van!

Upon arrival you are met with the big-nosed statue of a Tengu. In Japanese folklore, Tengu are an example of Yokai (supernatural beings) and are said to inhabit the forests and mountains of Japan. The king of the Tengu, Sōjōbō, is said to dwell on Mount Kurama.

Take the funicular railway up Mt. Kurama to Kurama-dera

Once you get on the main street you can follow the road round until you reach the entrance to Kurama-dera. You can’t miss it! At the top of the steps flanked by Japanese lanterns you’ll reach the entrance to the funicular railway.

I visited in 2018 following the typhoon and subsequent landslides, and on the way up you could see where giant trees had fallen and slid down the mountain. Although much had been cleared up it was clear to see the destruction that had been wrought.  Even some of the local shrines had not escaped the damage.  

There’s a little bit of a walk from the railway to the temple but it’s not too strenuous, and if you’re lucky there are sometimes children who give out cups of hot tea at the top of the climb.  

At the temple you can get yourself a goshuin and admire the view. From Kurama-dera you can also hike through the forest to nearby village Kibune, although sadly the path was closed when I visited.

Down to Yuki shrine

From Kurama-dera you can walk down the mountain, passing through Yuki Shrine, a small shrine surrounded by huge pine trees. As you can see from the picture below you can get omukiji (fortunes) from Tengu-shaped dispensers. Regardless of whether you’re going up or down the mountain you’ll pass through the slightly dilapidated shrine entrance – although it’s horribly cliché to say, it really does feel like something straight out of a Ghibli film.

Bathe in nature at Kurama Onsen

Once you get over the initial apprehension of being nude in front of other people, onsen bathing is one of the best things to do in Japan. (You can check out my guide here on how to use an onsen).

If you keep walking down Kurama high street you eventually reach Kurama Onsen. To enter the onsen you need to get a ticket from the ticket machine…which you then give immediately to the man standing next to the machine. It makes no sense, I know.

Once you have received your towels, undressed, and showered you can then enter the communal baths (baths are separated by gender). The baths are situated in the bottom of the valley so you are basically surrounded by the forest – even if there’s a light breeze all the trees in the valley ripple in the wind. Overall it’s a very special experience and I can guarantee you’ll leave feeling totally refreshed!

Want to find out more about all the amazing places to visit in Japan? See my full first-trip Japan itinerary and travel guides here! I’ll be adding more as my Japan series progresses.