Visiting Matsushima Bay in winter!

 

After the snows of Aomori and an earthquake tremor in Sendai, I thought I was done with nature-related events and so I planned a relaxing day trip to Matsushima Bay.

Instead, I woke to news of really strong winds. Lots of train routes were being cancelled and when Japan is cancelling trains you know the weather is bad! By the time I got to Sendai station though things had improved and some trains were going as far as Matsushima. I jumped aboard and hoped for the best.

I am so glad I got there in the end as Matsushima is lovely and the views of the bay are stunning. A typical route is to go to Shiogama first, take the sightseeing ferry to Matsushima and then get the train back to Sendai. I didn’t want to risk going to the smaller Shiogama and then not being able to get to Matsushima so I thought I’d go straight to Matsushima first. I am quite glad I did, as you’ll find out!

Here’s how I did my day trip from Sendai to Matushima, what I did (and didn’t!) get up to!

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Getting to Matsushima from Sendai

I started off by taking the Senseki line from Sendai to Matsushima Kaigan station, which took just under 40 minutes and only cost me around 420 Yen one-way (around £2.30/ $3). In Sendai I stayed at the Almont Sendai, which was only a five minute walk away from the station.

If you can, sit on the left hand side of the train as you’ll get some great views of the bay as you get closer to Matsushima. The day was quite a mix of weather, as you’ll see from the below. Although the UK experiences four seasons in a day at times, it was quite a surprise looking back through my photographs – it’s hard to believe some of them were taken within an hour of each other!

 

Explore the area near the station

Near to the station and park area you can find Matsushima Rikyu, which sells traditional items and hosts craft workshops. There is also a rooftop terrace, although as you can imagine I gave that a miss – I didn’t want to get blown off the top!

I thought I’d walk through the park to see the bay, and whilst I was greeted with a pleasant view I got buffeted by the wind, so I scurried back and walked along the road to the main tourist area, passing by the Kanrantei Tea House. Here you can get some green tea with a traditional sweet (wagashi) if you’re in need of some refreshment.

After a five minute walk, I was at my first proper destination of the day – Zuiganji.

Visit the painted halls of Zuiganji

Zuiganji is a medium-sized Buddhist temple complex and home to temples, prayer caves filled with statues, and a small museum of temple artefacts. 

The entrance to the temple area is through a temple gate and along a stretch of pathway with lots of tall trees. It costs 700 Yen to enter Zuiganji and you can buy your ticket at the automated kiosk (there is an English option should you need it and you can use your PASMO/ Suica travel card too, if you have one).

The main star of the show is the main hall (Hondo). You have to take off your shoes when you enter and there are slippers available to change into. 

All along the walls are beautiful painted scenes (unfortunately you’re not allowed to take pictures, which is why there aren’t any here). Some of my favourites included a moon against a sumptuous blue sky; red and white flowers against a gold backdrop; and a fearsome tiger. Many of these were painted in gold or had gold backgrounds. If you’ve visited the Honmaru Palace at Nagoya Castle, you can find similar art there.

Walking around was a very peaceful affair and I enjoyed the smell of incense and the gentle flapping of the colourful flags in the wind. The squeaking sound of the nightingale floor was also quite an experience too.

I then headed next door to Entsuin. Along the route is a souvenir store selling ice cream – jellyfish flavour amongst them! (No, I didn’t try it).

Walk around the gorgeous gardens of Entsuin

Next door to Zuiganji is Entsuin, a temple and mausoleum with a Japanese garden. I loved the gabled entrance which leads to a pathway up to some of the temple buildings. Although it was still very pretty in February, I can imagine that in Spring or Autumn it will look even more beautiful.

Although I wasn’t aware when I visited, Entsuin is the mausoleum for Date Mitsumune, the grandson of Date Masamune. If you’re wondering who Date Masamune is (as I was), he was an influential leader and founded the city of Sendai. He has his own mausoleum in Sendai, called Zuihoden. 

From the temples I walked back towards the shore to explore the waterfront.

 

Take a sightseeing cruise around the bay (or not)

Although I was pretty sure the sightseeing cruises were going to be cancelled, I headed to the ferry terminal anyway. To no-one’s surprise, with the wind (and now snow!) all the boats were cancelled. It wasn’t hard to see why. Against my better judgement I went to the end of the pier to get some photos and not only was the bridge groaning against the wind but the water was being whipped up in waves moving away from the shore. 

I was a little bit disappointed not to be able to carry out my original plan of ferrying to Shiogama but if you have better luck, you can do it for 1500 Yen (around £8/ $11). Trips take around an hour to complete.

Do some shopping on the walk to Fukuura island

There are lots of restaurants along the shorefront and quite a few tourist shops too. You can purchase various Japanese souvenir items like furoshiki cloths, teapots, and kokeshi dolls (which originate from the Tohoku region). There’s a senbei (cracker) shop which smelled delicious as I went by too, and they also sell tenugui cloths that make great wall hangings (I have way too many and am always on the lookout for cute designs).

The Sendai area is also famous for edamame milkshakes, called zunda shakes. It doesn’t sound that appetising but I had some zunda ice cream and it was actually sweet, clean-tasting and really refreshing! 

When I finally got to Fukuura bridge (a traditional red Japanese-style bridge that connects Matsushima to Fukuura Island) you won’t be surprised to hear that that too, was closed. On the island itself though there is a temple, teahouse, and pleasant walking trails.

I was now starting to get pretty cold so I headed back to the train station and topped off at Shiogama on the way back to Sendai.

 

Visit Shiogama as an add-on

If you have some extra time you can get the train (or sightseeing boat) to Shiogama. I didn’t stay here too long as it was starting to get late and a lot of places were closed. There were quite a few potteryware shops that I enjoyed looking at though, and of course there is Shiogama Shrine, a shrine complex at the top of a LOT of steps. Pro tip from me – go up the path towards the shrine museum – it is a lot more gentle. 

Once I had visited the shrine I headed down the steps you’re meant to go up. They are very steep and with the wind I was hugging the bannister for dear life! From there though it was a walk back to Hon-Shiogama station and then a short trip back to Sendai.